Ropes

What is a Prusik?

The Salomon WAR has it on the equipment list... If you're in the dark, here's a down and dirty on the prusik backup

Rappelling Basics

From Jeff Kunkle: A couple key things to remember when rappelling are:

1. check, double-check, and have a buddy check your harness, knots, and rope. This can't be stressed enough and becomes even more important after pushing yourself in a race for several hours.
2. Get used to the idea of trusting the rope. Its hard considering that its only 11mm thick, but the rope could easily hold up a VW bus!
3. Be safe and have fun with it, there's nothing quite like hanging 75 feet in the air!

Gear

The following is a sample of required gear for a typical race. The January FROG Backyard race uses this list, for example.

Climbing Harness Figure 8 or Belay Tube rappel device 2 Locking Carabiners Gloves - full fingered recommended (the issue is burning your hands while removing the descender after the rappel) Helmet (bike ok)

More from Jeff Kunkle: the harness I have and recommend, is a "Black Diamond Bod" harness. It's comfortable and has buckles for the leg loops instead of step-ins. Thats real nice if you're wearing bulky clothing or boots and don't have to worry about getting the leg loops over them and getting tripped up, especially on glacier travel where crampons can easily tear it up too. Best advice is to try a bunch of different ones on and hang from the wall at Mt Chalet and see which one pinches you where(ouch, you all know what I mean!) For a belay/rappel device I prefer the ATC over a Figure-8. It uses less fricton, is easy to use, and easy to setup. A locking 'biner is a matter of personal preference but you will want a FAT one that you can easily get a rope or two through. They now have screw-gate and auto-locking 'biners so try them both out. Imagine which will be easier for you to use if you have gloves on, tired and dirty hands, or just pulling them off and on your harness. Remember locking 'biner=FAT!!

From John Stergius: I also like the BD (Alpine) Bod (a bare-bones version of the Bod). One shortcoming is that you need to rethread the waist buckle each time you put it on. It takes a little concentration to do it right so it doesn't unthread itself, anyway 'one more thing to think about when you're tired, its cold, dark, and the air is thin! A few things we found with the Salomon race last summer: they wouldn't allow the auto lockers (my preference) or any descender besides the figure 8 (pro's are simplicity, less prone to jamming, and any size rope will fit in it; biggest con is it twists the heck out of the rope - making a mess for the guys running the show), that said, I think I'd still recommend going with an ATC or other belay tube.

Training & References

• eHow to Rappel Down a Cliff
• Knots on the Web *Great* Knot Site
• Belaying Guide from Outdoor Action Program, Princeton University
• Knot Guide 20 knots, mostly for climbing, well-illustrated in three colors. From Irish Climbing On-line.
• Knot Knowledge Twenty-three practical knots are presented with photographs of the steps involved in tying each knot. Every step is also described in text.
• Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills Great all around book, and comes very highly recommended (by both Jeff Kunkle and John Stergius). Gives great descriptions of knots, equipment, and climbing methods.